第一章绪论....................................................................(1)

一、海浪研究对工程的意义.............................................................(1)

二、海浪研究的内容及发展过程......................................................(1)

三、海浪研究的手段、现状及展望.....................................................(3)

四、我国海浪研究的主要成果简介....................................................(4)

第二章海浪推算的基本概念.................................................................(5)

一、海水波动的分类..........................................................................(5)

二、海浪要素术语......................................................................(6)

（一）平均波高............................................................................................(7)

（二）有效波高..................................................................................(7)

（三）十分之一大波.........................................................................(7)

（四）最大波高..................................................................................(8)

（五）均方根波高........................................................................................(8)

三、设计波要素............................................................................(9)

（一）设计波高在波列中的累积频率...............................................................(9)

（二）设计波浪的重现期.......................................................................(9)

四、海浪谱......................................................................................(9)

五、风浪的发生与成长....................................................................(13)

第三章海浪要素的分布.......................................................................(16)

一、概述......................................................................................(16)

二、波高分布..............................................................................(16)

（一）深水波高的分布......................................................................................(16)

（二）浅水波高的分布..................................................................................(21)

（三）算例..................................................................................................(29)

三、关于海浪波面最大值问题..........................................................(29)

四、波高和周期的联合分布................................................................(38)

五、波长和周期的分布..................................................................(45)

（一）波长分布.............................................................................................(45)

（一）周期分布...............................................................................................(46)

六、多年一遇设计波高的频率分析....................................................(49)

（一）选样方法..........................................................................................(49)

（二）PearsonⅢ型分布曲线的应用....................................................................(50)

（三）Gumbel曲线的应用..............................................................................(55)

（四）关于特大波高的处理...........................................................................(57)

（五）复合极值分布的应用...............................................................................(61)

第四章海浪观测资料的统计分析和海浪要素的计算..................................(70)

一、海浪的谱分析方法...................................................................(70)

（一）获取海浪谱的途径..............................................................................(70)

（二）利用波面记录进行谱分析的方法...............................................................(70)

（三）利用谱计算海浪要素的方法..................................................................(74)

二、海浪要素的频率统计.............................................................(75)

（一）波高累积率和出现率的计算.....................................................................(76)

（二）波要素绝对值概率分布图的绘制..............................................................(79)

三、波要素的简便计算方法.................................................................(83)

四、波浪要素玫瑰图的绘制...................................................................(86)

五、两地波浪要素的相关计算.........................................................(87)

第五章由气象资料推算波浪的方法............................................................(89)

一、概述........................................................................(89)

二、风要素的确定.....................................................................(89)

（一）风速的确定......................................................................(90)

（二）风时的确定.........................................................................(92)

（三）风区的确定....................................................................................(93)

三、深水风浪要素推算方法................................................................(93)

（一）S-M方法.......................................................................................(93)

（二）Wilson关于移动风区深水风浪的计算方法.............................................(101)

（三）PNJ方法...........................................................................................(103)

（四）苏联的方法（PKMCH）与Стpeкaлoв方法.................................................(112)

（五）会战法...........................................................................................(116)

四、浅水风浪要素推算方法...............................................................(122)

（一）会战法................................................................................................(122)

（二）Bretschneider方法...............................................................................(132)

五、涌浪要素的计算.......................................................................(139)

（一）会战法涌浪计算的理论基础....................................................................(139)

（二）计算图解与查算步骤.............................................................................(140)

六、小风区风浪要素计算方法..........................................................(142)

第六章台风浪的推算方法.....................................................................(145)

一、概述.................................................................................(145)

二、台风的气压场模式及台风风场要素的计算.......................................(145)

（一）台风的气压场模式...................................................................................(145)

（二）台风区内最大风速的计算....................................................................(147)

（三）最大风速带至台风中心距离的计算........................................................(148)

三、台风区内的波浪推算................................................................(149)

（一）Bretschneider（1957年）的经验公式......................................................(149)

（二）宇野木早苗的公式................................................................................(150)

（三）井岛武士方法....................................................................................(151)

第七章传入浅水的海浪........................................................................(154)

一、水深变浅引起的波浪变形.................................................................(154)

（一）概述.........................................................................................(154)

（二）水深变浅引起的规则波变形....................................................................(155)

（三）水深变浅引起的不规则波变形..............................................................(170)

二、波浪折射.............................................................................(178)

（一）概述................................................................(178)

（二）水深变化引起的波浪折射.........................................................................(179)

（三）绘制折射图的图解法..................................................................(79)

（四）规则波折射的数值计算法.......................................................................(183)

（五）不规则波折射计算...................................................................................(185)

（六）水流引起的波浪折射..............................................................................(190)

三、波浪破碎..................................................................................(191)

（一）概述.................................................................................................(191)

（二）破碎波的类型.......................................................................................(192)

（三）规则波的破碎波计算.............................................................................(192)

（四）不规则波的破碎波计算..........................................................................(195)

四、波浪绕射...................................................................................(201)

（一）概述.................................................................................................(201)

（二）规则波绕射...........................................................................................(202)

（三）不规则波的绕射计算.........................................................................(207)

五、波浪反射...................................................................................(211)

（一）概述...................................................................................................(211)

（二）规则波的反射计算.................................................................................(211)

（三）不规则波的反射波波高计算.......................................................................(215)

第八章波浪对建筑物的作用....................................................................(222)

一、波浪对直墙式建筑物作用力的确定..................................................(222)

（一）概述...................................................................................................(222)

（二）立波对直墙的作用力.................................................................................(223)

（三）破碎波对直墙的作用力...........................................................................(241)

二、作用于孤立建筑物上的波浪力........................................................(250)

（一）作用在小直径桩柱上的波压力.................................................................(251)

（二）用不规则波方法计算桩柱上的作用力.........................................................(263)

（三）作用在大直径墩柱上的波浪力....................................................................(268)

附录.....................................................................................................(274)

附表1由周期计算波长（米）表....................................................(274)

附表2米/秒-海里/时对照表.........................................................(274)

附表3海里/时-米/秒对照表...........................................................(275)

附表4海里-公里对照表...............................................................(276)

附表5公里-海里对照表...............................................................(277)

附表3-1　PearsonⅢ型曲线的模比系数Kp值表...............................(277)

附表3-2　PearsonⅢ型曲线的离均系数φp值表..................................(283)

附表3-3三点法用表——Sd与Cr关系表..........................................(286)

附表3-4三点法用表——Cs与有关Φp值的关系表................................(288)

附表3-5Gumbel极值分布中变量Y的均值与标准差σ■值表............(289)

附表3-6Gumbel极值分布律的λpn值表...........................................(290)

附表3-7Poisson-Gumbel复合极值分布表....................................(291)

附表3-8二项-对数正态复合极值分布表..........................................(293)

附表4=1arm/H1和arm/H2的查算表.............................................(296)

附表7-1水深、周期、波长与波速表................................................(299)

附表7-2浅水的波高、波速和波长与相对水深的关系表..........................(304)

附图7-1半无限堤不规则波绕射系数Kdk的计算图................................(312)

附图7-2开口防波堤不规则波绕射系数Kdk的计算图.............................(318) 2100433B